I Will Still Have A Scarred Real Sex Dolls

Then I can make any color or design. I really need the forum to comment on this. I have a doll, and in the second week, my new doll lost the left / right movement of the foot … Some of you may have seen this happen, that is, the foot just slipped down. This is WM 160D. This is my second real sex doll.

My first doll was from another vendor. In the first few weeks, it had the same ankle problems and bad neck. Now, the seller I just bought from this doll is very convinced that seller # 1 should replace the doll she made. Now the supplier tells me that the ankle damage is small and will not cause replacement, and the neck damage will cause replacement … and sent me instructions for repairing the ankle.

Now I have only my first doll for a few months, and I am ready for any repairs. I smashed it with TPE glue. A small hole in my finger that I tried to repair eventually melted after putting too much glue. Even if I could repair it, I would still have a scarred real sex doll. Please ask me for as much advice as possible. Tell me the truth. Is this small and won’t cause a return?

Usage And How Often You Bend Real Sex Dolls

Owned her since October 2017. As soft as her arrival, without any damage. I think they do stain easily, so either don’t wear any dark clothes on them or wash them off. Wash and dust the doll the first time you get it … grease for at least 3 to 4 months. Depending on your usage and how often you bend the real sex doll, it will determine your cleaning, oiling and powdering cycle.

This is one thing that is different for everyone. Keep in mind that most dolls deflate a little bit, which means that the oil will seep into the doll’s surface for a while, which means you may find very light oil spots on her or her linen clothes, which Is normal. Another thing is that you don’t wear dark clothes until you have washed the doll several times to get the mold out of the material.

If you do decide to dress the doll in dark clothes, it is best to just let her wear this color for about 6 to 8 hours, and then dress her with light clothes. Does anyone know how to remove the tiny scratches on the silicone skin? After a period of dress up, a scratch appeared on the shoulder of my brand new Sanhui silicone doll. Very noticeable after powdering. Guess there must be some common real sex dolls remedies for these things? She is too new.

Figure Out How To Heat Seal Sex Dolls

Any ideas that would help your question, but be sure to know how you would manage to seal it up (end result) … consider maybe one day (along the seams) to raise my own girl’s leg up, but mainly It’s “frightened” It’s hard to get back to the right state again. Thinking about stuffing and stitching almost makes me feel like I’m dealing with stuffing sex doll. I don’t care if my doll comes out of here, there is a nasty body Scars and fluffy legs.

I just can’t use her one leg to be heavy and loose. If I could lose weight, but she still had leg-like things at her tail, I would call it victory. For her, losing weight will not be the worst thing in the world. I cut my foot from the sole of the foot, moved it up, and managed to remove the bone. The broken part was at the weld before the hip joint, so once I cut the tape, it slipped out.

In addition to wounds on the soles of the feet and seams, TPE skin is also okay. I was able to cut the tape on my feet and knees without poking outside. Now, I just need to fill something inside to keep its shape, or tie a ribbon around it to keep the legs closed, or figure out how to heat-sex sex dolls. Still, I’m happy that at least heavy metals can be removed.

Trim It To The Desired Comfort Sex Dolls

If anyone can answer, I have two questions. One is whether I should avoid certain types of filling (polyester will react with TPE? Cotton). Also, I’m not sure how to seal the sex doll skin once the metal is removed. TPE glue sounds difficult to use, and I’m not sure if I want to risk hot smoke.

Can I stitch it up or pass the thread through the TPE? I eventually removed my leg myself. The mistake I made was that I might be able to fix her, so I cut creases in my hips and legs. In the long run, this is a wrong decision. Attempting to use her as a one-leg torso doll, when I used her, I could feel the metal on her hips.

If you decide to amputate, I suggest you do a little amputation on her thigh and then slide the leg out. The top of the “femur” should be able to slide out easily, leaving a stump which can then be trimmed to the desired comfort. One foot can deflect the body, but it’s much easier to move around. Get good and evil. We hope your sex dolls supplier can serve you.

At Least I Can Pick Up Sex Dolls Again

To answer your other questions, it is not difficult to remove the TPE sex doll from the skeleton. The bottom of the foot was most damaged because I needed to cut it open to remove standing foot metal, but for the rest of the leg, this was just a progressive cut along the seam. Once I cut the tape at the knee joint, peeled it off and cut the TPE from the drill bit stuck to the metal until it was completely separated, it was simple.

I would open the hips and tie the metal back with a metal zipper to keep her legs soft but still workable. I just sealed it up and used the video on YouTube-using heatgun and metal pieces .. feasible and sure. Thanks for the information you provided, I haven’t realized that there will be tape and TPE / metal bonding to make it so difficult.

However, if my supplier cannot fix the replacement body, I might try to see if it is possible to cut the TPE around the tape / metal without puncturing the surface. Even if it causes external damage, it is better than a completely loose leg. I think in this regard, even a complete amputation of the leg is better than my current situation. I have to make sure that no water comes in from the open stump, but at least I can pick up sex dolls again.

Try Removing TPE Sex Dolls On Your Feet

At some points, mostly where there is a joint, there is a material bonded to the tpe. I am currently trying to remove tpe from the girl’s feet, which is a huge pain and does not cause skin damage on the outside. I cut the tpe sex doll above my ankle and started the removal process. I tried several hip fixations before deciding to fix some parts, but unfortunately it didn’t work.

I feel you are in pain and hope to solve it for you. The mine was not purchased from an approved supplier. I hope that approved vendors can do more for you. In my opinion, limbs that brake during that time indicate poor bone manufacturing. Maybe we should ask for skull photos and finished doll photos from the factory.

In fact, I cut off most of the doll’s legs. Fluffy legs are entangled as hard to carry as heavy legs. I haven’t tried to seal the rest. I was actually trying to remove the TPE sex dolls on my feet without breaking or cutting it. What makes it so painful! I’m glad you were able to get the job you need easier than I am trying.

Some Parts Are Easily Exposed To Sex Dolls Metal

I’m afraid there will still be something missing that will prevent it from working, so I think I should ask more knowledge experts. Is it feasible / a good idea to remove the metal skeleton from a hip fractured leg? I’ve contacted my sex doll vendor and I’m waiting to fix this, but I didn’t expect anything. In the meantime, I have been brainstorming about bone removal. It is difficult to remove bones like the legs.

It is absolutely difficult to bond TPE to metal and then remove it from the metal. I have done this many times, but this is to separate the doll from the torso, but I know that the legs are usually impossible and the toes are simply impossible without destroying the doll. I have tried welding joints but there is no solution because the oil has contaminated the metal and flux cored welding does not last very long.

I am afraid that these broken parts are actually ends and cannot be completed. After 7 weeks of use, I had the same experience on dolls. About the inability to remove the skeletal leg is absolutely correct. At least on my doll, some parts can easily expose the sex dolls metal, leading people to think you can slide the metal out. Unfortunately, this is not the case.

Have You Given Up On This Real Sex Dolls Project

I can’t navigate the repair kit without errors, so I assume it’s out of stock. Any further suggestions are appreciated. I am going to throw away the towel. Today, I’ve done some welding work on her armpits, but the results did not excite me. I closed her armpit as much as possible to reduce the pressure, then pushed the iron into her armpit and started sliding the needle tip left and right to melt the TPE real sex doll.

After waiting for about an hour, and the latest article I published in the thread, I went back to the room to look at her armpit again, and it actually looked more promising than any photos shared in the thread. All I need to do now is make sure the tip is deep enough to avoid getting the effect of Swiss cheese.

I don’t know if you have given up all hope for this real sex dolls project, but maybe you can try to change your technology and add some tools to help you get better results? Read it carefully, and it seems that you can complete all the published tasks with only a soldering iron blade! ? Great, I want to say you can only do so much with one tool! If you are not satisfied, try fewer Swiss cheeses.

Adhesives Not Recommended For This Repair Real Sex Dolls

But I’m not sure what would I think if the maintenance staff saw a guy in a half-shirt with this when they came to my apartment? For my soldering iron, I chose this based on price and accessories. As someone who doesn’t use a soldering iron, this can easily be caught. If you are working on a TPE real sex doll, use a blade attachment. Sculpting is much easier, and an increase in surface area may make things faster.

But take a moment. I will give up the current course here. A soldering iron has been ineffective at performing this repair. The original repair shown in the previous post was not good enough, and I messed up her armpit. I tried to fill her armpit with the TPE test piece provided by the supplier, and it seemed difficult to make everything work. To me, the pressure in the underarm area is too great.

I tried RLSD’s TPE glue, and although it did play a role, the results for the armpit area were not satisfactory. This was a huge failure and I was reluctant to continue using the existing tools. It can be repaired, but it is not in my support right now. I really don’t want to risk using Loctite glue, or recommend any adhesive not recommended for this repair of real sex dolls.

Might Be Better For Larger Real Sex Dolls Areac

And I will avoid using hot air guns, because I am not sure it will not work even in the final smoothing. A larger flat tool (such as a heated spoon) may help smooth the area, but in the end it has nothing to do with appearance, but functionality and repair are crucial so it doesn’t get worse. I also have a real sex doll that needs repair-just like your arm.

But the degree of tearing is small, I will fix my problem this way, and I will get a repair video. I can’t believe this will attract your attention and Arthur’s attention! Here I did receive a test piece from Tan WM, which started to restore my confidence and I have been practicing the test piece in a “well-ventilated work area”. I’m using a knife tip and it takes some time to smooth it, so I know it will take a lot of time.

If the size of the attachment is three times the original, it may be better for larger real sex dolls areas, but I am willing to do this for a long time. I know it’s easy to smooth it with my hot air gun, but since everyone says the hot air gun is a bad idea, smoothing it will be a bigger task. It doesn’t seem impossible, it’s just tedious.